Fall HVAC Preparation | Get Your Heating Ready for Winter

Why it matters: Fresh filter for heating season reduces strain on blower motor

How to do it: Match exact size, note airflow direction arrow, set calendar reminder

Why it matters: Discover problems when repair is convenient, not urgent

How to do it: Set thermostat to heat, raise temp 5° above room temp, run 15+ minutes

Why it matters: Battery failure mid-winter leaves you without heat controls

How to do it: Replace annually regardless of low-battery warning, use quality batteries

Why it matters: Fire safety, proper airflow, technician access

How to do it: Remove storage items, flammable materials, holiday decorations

Why it matters: Gas furnaces produce carbon monoxide - silent killer risk

How to do it: Press test button, replace batteries, verify one per floor

Why it matters: Summer storms may have deposited debris or caused damage

How to do it: Remove leaves/debris, check for visible damage, trim vegetation 2 feet back

Why it matters: Blocked vents cause uneven heating and system strain

How to do it: Move furniture, open all vents, ensure none covered by rugs

Why it matters: Leaks waste 20-30% of heating energy

How to do it: Look for disconnections, gaps, crushed sections in accessible areas

Why it matters: Dirty grilles restrict airflow and reduce efficiency

How to do it: Vacuum or wipe monthly, check for obstructions

Why it matters: Backup heat strips must work for extreme cold

How to do it: Switch to emergency heat mode, verify warm air, switch back

Schedule your fall heating tune-up for October in Texas. September is too early (AC still running daily), and November may already have cold snaps. October hits the sweet spot—contractors aren't slammed yet, and you'll discover any problems before you desperately need heat. Most North Texas HVAC companies book up quickly once cold fronts start arriving.

A thorough heating tune-up includes: heat exchanger inspection for cracks (critical CO safety check), burner cleaning and adjustment, ignition system testing, gas connection verification, safety control testing, thermostat calibration, moving parts lubrication, flue inspection, airflow measurement, and CO level testing. For heat pumps, add defrost cycle verification, auxiliary heat testing, and reversing valve check. Expect 60-90 minutes for a thorough inspection.

Signs of a cracked heat exchanger include: CO detector alarms, soot buildup around furnace, yellow flickering burner flame (should be blue), rust flakes in burner area, unusual smells, and family members experiencing headaches or flu-like symptoms. However, many cracks are invisible without professional inspection using cameras, pressure testing, or dye testing. This is why annual professional inspection is essential—cracked heat exchangers can leak deadly carbon monoxide.

Heat pump winter prep includes: testing the defrost cycle (must work to clear ice buildup), verifying auxiliary/emergency heat strips work, cleaning the outdoor coil thoroughly, checking refrigerant levels, and ensuring proper thermostat programming. Heat pumps must switch from AC mode to heating mode and have backup heat for when temperatures drop below 25-30°F. Test emergency heat mode in October—don't wait until you need it.

A dust burning smell during the first heating cycle is normal—it's accumulated dust burning off the heat exchanger. This should dissipate within 20-30 minutes. However, persistent chemical smells, electrical burning smells, or rotten egg odors (gas leak) require immediate attention. Turn off the furnace, ventilate your home, and call a professional. A brief musty smell may indicate dirty ductwork or filter replacement needed.

Replace your furnace filter every 30-90 days during active heating season, depending on filter type and household factors. 1-inch filters typically need monthly replacement; 4-5 inch media filters last 3-6 months. Check monthly regardless—factors like pets, construction, high occupancy, or dusty conditions may require more frequent changes. A dirty filter is the #1 cause of heating system failures.

Heat pumps work best when allowed to run longer cycles at steady temperatures rather than cycling on and off. Avoid large temperature setbacks (more than 2°F) as recovery activates expensive auxiliary heat strips. Keep your thermostat at a consistent 68-70°F. The fan can run continuously or on "auto"—continuous provides more even temperatures but slightly higher energy use.

For energy efficiency, set your thermostat to 68°F when home and 62-65°F when sleeping or away. However, heat pump owners should avoid setbacks greater than 2°F to prevent auxiliary heat strip activation. Programmable thermostats can automate this. Every degree below 70°F saves approximately 3% on heating costs. During extreme cold, maintaining steady temperature reduces system strain.

Prepare for extreme cold events by: having your heating system professionally serviced before winter, knowing your HVAC contractor's emergency number, having backup heat (UL-listed electric heater, never propane indoors), insulating pipes or knowing how to drip faucets, keeping emergency supplies (blankets, flashlights, food, water), and knowing your water shutoff location. Establish a relationship with an HVAC contractor before emergencies—existing customers get priority.

Uneven heating usually results from: closed or blocked vents (keep all open), leaky ductwork (20-30% loss common), dirty filter restricting airflow, improperly sized system, poor insulation in some areas, or return air imbalance. Check the simple things first—open all vents, replace the filter, ensure furniture isn't blocking airflow. Persistent issues may require duct sealing, balancing damper adjustment, or professional airflow analysis.

HVAC maintenance plans typically cost $150-$300 annually and include two tune-ups (spring and fall), priority scheduling, and discounts on repairs. They're worth it for: older systems more prone to failure, homeowners who forget to schedule maintenance, and households that want priority service during emergencies. The tune-ups alone would cost $180-$300 separately, making basic plans cost-effective for most homeowners.

Consider replacement when: your furnace is 15-20+ years old, repairs exceed 50% of replacement cost, the heat exchanger is cracked (safety issue), you've had multiple repairs in one year, energy bills are increasing despite maintenance, or your system uses R-22 refrigerant (being phased out). Also consider replacement if upgrading to a more efficient system would provide significant energy savings—modern furnaces are 90-98% efficient versus 70-80% for older units.